We arrived in Amsterdam on a cold, blustery mid-March morning after a 13-hour flight from the U.S.A. -- during which I had finally fallen asleep sometime after crossing the international date line and just shortly prior to landing at Schiphol (pronounced sky-pole) Airport. Schiphol means "cemetary of ships" in Dutch and not too many years ago, the land the airport is built on was part of the North Sea!

After customs, we were trundled off to our lodging which turned out to be the Hotel Okura -- Japanese-owned but, Thank God, located on a canal bank with marvelous views of ancient rooftops from the windows of our comfortably spacious room. The staff was primarily Taiwanese, spoke little English, could not understand our odd requests for ice in our water and other drinks -- but really very friendly and helpful.

Tim was truly exhausted after the long flight and, once into our room, promptly fell asleep. I started to unpack but the view from the window tempted me and I went out for an exploratory walk. I found Amsterdam amazing -- a city of dams and windmills, row upon row of ancient gabled houses leaning crazily against one another along a network of tree-lined canals filled with houseboats decorated with windowboxes of geraniums, and laundry flying in the breeze. (Yes, people really do live on these boats!) Even though I had been in the city only a few hours, I felt strangely at home.

On my return to the hotel, I found Tim awake, very hungry and slightly cross. "Where in the hell have you been? Walking! Are you nuts -- alone in a strange city and not able to speak the language?" He finally calmed down after I explained how lovely it was and how safe I felt and he could see for himself tomorrow. We shared a delicious dinner of strange foods we couldn't pronounce on a glassed-in terrace overlooking the canal -- then off to rather early bed. Oddly, I did not share the jet-lag that was bothering Tim, but was more than ready for bed after my long walk.

The next day, we strolled along Albert Cuyp Straat, the open-air market that stretches block after block -- filled with stands of antiques, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and clothing. Then on to Dam (pronounced DOM) Square,